All these Caribbean Mouths…

Ok, Bocas del Toro gets its own entry. We want to move here. Seriously, Raph is checking out real estate as I write, and trying to convince me that buying an island is a good investment. The first night we flew into this small Hispanic Caribbean town, a group of local men were in full Carnival form, sporting Afro-Latino rhythms on various percussive objects while dancing to the beat—they were fantastic. Then we checked in to a gorgeous “budget” accommodation, complete with orthopedic beds, hardwood floors and ceilings, wireless, hammocks, and al a carte breakfast, and tasted the owner’s home-made pizza downstairs. We then headed to town to check out the local wares and took in the Caribbean sea while tasting the “killing me man” rum at Lili’s waterfront Cafe.

The following day we perplexed the locals by walking the 5 hrs across the Island of Colon to Bocas del Drago, instead of taking the $2.50 bus. On the other side, was the prettiest little stretch of abandoned, palm-dotted, ice-cream ad snorkeling beach you could ask for. I found a nice hammock to fall out of while Raph snorkeled up a storm. Finished up the evening with some brilliantly cheap Mediterranean food and Raph drank his Pina Colada out of an actual pineapple, and I became addicted to something called a Vanilla Avalanche (Baileys, Frangelico, Vanilla Ice Cream...you get the idea).

Day three we took a snorkeling boat tour to 2 of the better snorkeling spots, spotted some Dolphins and actual Sloths (did not know they existed until now…) and then frolicked upon Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos Island. Red Frog is quite similar to Australia’s Northern Beaches, except for these gorgeous tiny red frogs, which could pass for painted china , which the local kids collect in order to show you for tips. We then moved our digs to a retreat on Bluff Beach—“off the grid” on endless miles of (mostly unswimmable but) gorgeous beach. The owners gave us a bottle of Chilean champagne as Congratulations and we met this great and interesting family from the US/Canada who constantly insisted on inviting us to dinner, asking us a million questions and practicing their brilliant language skills on us.

Day four we biked back into town (45 mins one way) to luncheon on the waterfront again at Buena Vista, where the local organic chocolate farm docks its desserts. Then a leisurely bike to the second hand books store, whose owner gave me a Cajun dictionary for free, and when asked for directions, claimed that no one looking for the Bocas Butterfly Farm has ever returned…we gave up searching quickly and headed back to our lovely adopted family to share our bottle of champagne.

Day five Raph went kayaking, while I lucked out with the best and cheapest private yoga class ever, followed by a massage, and a facial. We both got a taste of the Valentine’s Day chocolate contest entries before running off to the airport (5 min walk from town) to catch our plane back to Panama City. Finally, the honey part of the moon!!!

Panamanian Girl

Flushing toilets, running water, hot water, U.S. products, insane Carnivale costumes, and everyone's bodyshape looks like mine-- I must be in Panama! Am finally off antibiotics, and feeling fully recovered in the Panama heat! We our staying with my lovely Aunt Carmen, who has already seen to it that we visited The Panama Canal (at Miraflores locks), The Panama Canal Museum, Ft. Clayton (where my father was born), The Panama Viejo Ruins, Casco Viejo, Mis Pueblitos (a collection of re-enactment villages consisting of the Spanish, Jamaican and Indigenous villages around Panama), and a number of family reunions held everywhere from local pubs to top brunch clubs! It's nice to know you like your family...and we all look like each other-- freaky. Carmen also took us to "Pelyhe's Place", her sprawling beach home in Santa Clara, and I got to see where Margot Fonteyn lived with her Panamanian husband!!! On Wednesday we are heading to the the Carribbean archipelgo, Bocas del Toro, to see the most famous beaches, wildlife and jungle islands Panama has to offer. It is one of the few times Raph and I will be alone on this trip and it intersects with both Valentine's Day and main Carnivale days (South America's excuse to party 24/7)!

Good-bye Peru!

For those who have not heard, the final two weeks in Peru were difficult to say the least. First, the floods started and our running water stopped. Then, a state of emergency was declared in Cuzco, with 2,500 some tourists trapped at Macchu Picchu (where we were headed on the Inca trail that weekend) and several dead, homes & crops throughout Cuzco destroyed, and so on. Needless to say, we were all disappointed that we would not be seeing Macchu Picchu, (as all has been closed down for 2 months), but extremely grateful we were not among the above-mentioned.

Then, due to the general disease frequency and lack of hygiene in Cuzco exacerbated by the floods, plus our contact in our volunteer work, I managed to contract a lung infection, a urinary tract infection, giardia and salmonella all at once! So instead of my first time viewing the ancient Inca mecca, I experienced my first "third world" hospitalization and IV drip. No, it was a really nice traveller's clinic, and the doctor spoke English and let Raph sleep in the room with me:)

Good-bye to Peru was very bitter-sweet: part of me couldn't wait to get out of there, but saying good-bye to the kids (oh yeah, and you guys Tom, Linds, Helena, Cindy & Virginia) and the thank-you ceremony they gave us (flowers, singing, every single one hugged us several times over) was touching to say the least.