Thursday, February 25, 2010

All these Caribbean Mouths…






Ok, Bocas del Toro gets its own entry. We want to move here. Seriously, Raph is checking out real estate as I write, and trying to convince me that buying an island is a good investment. The first night we flew into this small Hispanic Caribbean town, a group of local men were in full Carnival form, sporting Afro-Latino rhythms on various percussive objects while dancing to the beat—they were fantastic. Then we checked in to a gorgeous “budget” accommodation, complete with orthopedic beds, hardwood floors and ceilings, wireless, hammocks, and al a carte breakfast, and tasted the owner’s home-made pizza downstairs. We then headed to town to check out the local wares and took in the Caribbean sea while tasting the “killing me man” rum at Lili’s waterfront Cafe.

The following day we perplexed the locals by walking the 5 hrs across the Island of Colon to Bocas del Drago, instead of taking the $2.50 bus. On the other side, was the prettiest little stretch of abandoned, palm-dotted, ice-cream ad snorkeling beach you could ask for. I found a nice hammock to fall out of while Raph snorkeled up a storm. Finished up the evening with some brilliantly cheap Mediterranean food and Raph drank his Pina Colada out of an actual pineapple, and I became addicted to something called a Vanilla Avalanche (Baileys, Frangelico, Vanilla Ice Cream...you get the idea).

Day three we took a snorkeling boat tour to 2 of the better snorkeling spots, spotted some Dolphins and actual Sloths (did not know they existed until now…) and then frolicked upon Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos Island. Red Frog is quite similar to Australia’s Northern Beaches, except for these gorgeous tiny red frogs, which could pass for painted china , which the local kids collect in order to show you for tips. We then moved our digs to a retreat on Bluff Beach—“off the grid” on endless miles of (mostly unswimmable but) gorgeous beach. The owners gave us a bottle of Chilean champagne as Congratulations and we met this great and interesting family from the US/Canada who constantly insisted on inviting us to dinner, asking us a million questions and practicing their brilliant language skills on us.

Day four we biked back into town (45 mins one way) to luncheon on the waterfront again at Buena Vista, where the local organic chocolate farm docks its desserts. Then a leisurely bike to the second hand books store, whose owner gave me a Cajun dictionary for free, and when asked for directions, claimed that no one looking for the Bocas Butterfly Farm has ever returned…we gave up searching quickly and headed back to our lovely adopted family to share our bottle of champagne.

Day five Raph went kayaking, while I lucked out with the best and cheapest private yoga class ever, followed by a massage, and a facial. We both got a taste of the Valentine’s Day chocolate contest entries before running off to the airport (5 min walk from town) to catch our plane back to Panama City. Finally, the honey part of the moon!!!

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